Evolution of a Blog
This blog has evolved as I have as a maker. It starts at the beginning of my journey where I began to re-tread my tires in the useful lore of micro electronics and the open-source software that can drive them. While building solutions around micro-electronics are still an occasional topic my more recent focus has been on the 3D Printing side of making.
Friday, July 10, 2015
Tanks, Tanks, and more Tanks!
Now let us see some tanks per my last post! As I said, the source of the tank models is on Thingiverse and they are the creations of a New Zealander (m_bergman) that has done some absolutely stunning work. He has three collections of tanks but I am only talking about World War 2 in 1:200 scale (Part II, Part III) and a subset of the latter in 1:100 scale in this post.
Here is the truck for which I got my second 3DHubs order. This is printed in ABS on my Wanhao Duplicator 4S with a layer height of 0.2mm. The detail, as you can see from the closeup, is pretty amazing.
These are 1:100 scale models and for reference see the image with the coin. That is a pence but is also the same size as a yank penny.
These are not particularily easy models to print as acknowledged on Thingiverse by m_bergman. If your printer is not well calibrated for detail these models will not look but so good.
These models need support to print correctly. I found that each of the models that I printed needed a little adjustment of the automatic support placement.
I am going back and forth on whether to print these models on a raft. This takes longer and adds more pain to the cleanup but it helps greatly to ensure that the model does not come unglued making the print more robust. I think it is on a model by model basis. Try it on one print without the raft. If it works print any more that you might want and if not use a raft.
I use Simplify3D and it does not
seem to support a 0 tolerance for support so I used 1mm. On tanks this left the gun barrels unsupported so I went back and added support manually.
The raft and support are much harder to remove from the PLA prints but both require patience and the right tools. I would suggest a hobby knife, a set of small screw drivers for prying (jewelers for example), and a needle nose pliers with a very small nose. I had a small one that was extra but not small enough until after my Dremel got to it. The tip needs to be tiny.
Getting support off PLA prints is easier if the model is slightly warm. Remember that PLA melts at a low temperature if you are going to try and re-heat a part! I sit it on a heated build plate set to 75c. I use either 3mm or 4mm support columns with PLA as removal is such a challenge. There is also a setting in Simplify3D that allows you to specify an overhang amount for support. This is really helpful.
Follow m_bergmans direction of removing the support between the tracks as this does really help.
In the next post I will show more TANKS!
If you want a tank but you don't have a printer you can, in effect, rent some time on one by winging your way to 3DHubs: